The antioxidant, lightening and skin protective potential of vitamin C is skilfully exploited to formulate face serums, innovative latest generation cosmetics, aimed at postponing the appointment with photo-aging.
Applied to the skin using face serums, vitamin C is beneficial because:
- fights the action of free radicals;
- reduces or prevents the formation of wrinkles;
- counteracts the loss of skin tone;
- hides skin blemishes and other imperfections;
- acts in the deeper layers of the skin;
- moisturizes the skin;
- stimulates cell renewal;
- helps keep skin young for a long time.
On the skin, vitamin C acts as a shield, acting as an "effective protection between the skin and the external environment: the face serum is the most suitable tool to convey the molecule into the deeper layers of the epidermis, protecting it and preserving its beauty. natural, that's why there are so many products for face and body based on vitamin C.
and before the cream, the serum completes the beauty treatment and helps keep the skin hydrated for longer.
The face serum completes the beauty routine of every day because:
- improves the absorption of the cream;
- revitalizes and tones the skin of the face;
- moisturizes and protects the skin of the face;
- helps the skin to stay young.
Summary and Key Points
Role in the Body
Vitamin C is an extremely important vitamin for human health, as it is involved in various metabolic functions:
- in the synthesis of collagen, as it acts as a cofactor in various enzymatic reactions;
- in cellular protection from free radicals;
- in wound healing;
- in the regulation of gene expression;
- in immune reactions;
- in the regeneration of other antioxidants (such as vitamin E).
However, Research 1,2 has shown that vitamin C taken with food or with specific oral supplements is still not sufficient to bring appreciable benefits to the skin.
Attention
The absorption of vitamin C seems to be limited by active transport mechanisms in the intestine, consequently the use of creams and serums with vitamin C seems to be the best way to guarantee the skin an adequate supply of vitamin C, keeping it healthy and radiant. , and protecting it from external aggressions.
of Vitamin C SerumsThe antioxidant properties of vitamin C are exploited to combat photo-aging and chrono-aging:
- by "photo-aging" s "we mean skin aging mainly induced by exposure to the sun's rays;
- by "chrono-aging" s "we mean the physiological aging we all face, regardless of smog, UV rays and other environmental factors.
Vitamin C is advertised as one of the best anti-aging substances; for this reason, it represents an excellent remedy designed to keep the skin smooth, luminous and uniform.
According to other sources, vitamin C is considered to be the most powerful antioxidant on the skin 3.
Vitamin C Serums against Photo-Aging of the skin
Numerous studies 4 confirm the real benefits of vitamin C applied through serums or creams to protect the skin from photo-aging, a damage that - according to what emerges from the Clinical and Experimental Dermatology 5 - is mostly related to free radicals.
The so-called "ROS" are the reactive oxygen species, produced on the skin in case of exposure to UVA and UVB rays.
ROS represent real harm to the skin, as they can generate a number of dangerous effects:
- alter cell membranes;
- damage DNA;
- they alter and inhibit the synthesis of collagen.
Such effects can cause a series of chain events, from the simplest wrinkle formation to the most serious manifestation of skin cancer 5.
Vitamin C Serums against Chrono-Aging of the skin
Chrono-aging is dictated by the laws of genetics.
Over time, the skin of each of us undergoes inevitable alterations:
- collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid are produced in smaller quantities, causing a loss of elasticity and hydration of the skin;
- the adipose tissue (which has a supporting function) undergoes a drastic reduction, causing a progressive loss of tone and turgor of the skin.
Anti-Wrinkle Properties of Vitamin C Serums
Vitamin C has also been assigned an important role to combat wrinkles, so the face serums that contain it can also be used effectively as an anti-wrinkle remedy.
In fact, it seems that L-ascorbic acid is an essential molecule for the biosynthesis of collagen:
- ascorbate is a cofactor for the hydroxylase of the enzymes involved in the transformation of protocollagen into collagen;
- ascorbic acid is also useful for preserving existing collagen production 6.
- ascorbate can indirectly stimulate collagen synthesis, activating its transcription and stabilizing the mRNA of protocollagen 7.
Deepening
To confirm the anti-wrinkle properties of vitamin C, we report what emerges from a study 4, in which it was observed that the application of 10% topical ascorbic acid for 3 months on 19 subjects between 36 and 72 years with facial skin moderately photo-damaged resulted in an actual improvement on:
- fine wrinkles;
- roughness to the touch;
- laxity and skin tone;
- yellowing of the face
Lightening Properties of Vitamin C Serums
Vitamin C against skin spots
Vitamin C lightening serums are indicated to treat hyperpigmentation of the skin, such as sun lentigos or brown spots linked to photo-aging.
Clinical Studies and Evidence
According to a study performed in the Department of Dermatology (Kitasato University School of Medicine, Sagamihara, Japan) 8, it was observed that the application of vitamin C (used in the form of magnesium-L-ascorbic-phosphate) on human skin is effective in favoring an evident lightening of melasma and freckles in 19 of the 34 patients analyzed.
Vitamin C is a water-soluble molecule, i.e. soluble in an aqueous environment: most serums contain vitamin C in aqueous solution, which is clear and straw-colored.
Little Stable Vitamin
Vitamin C contained in serums is generally not very stable: exposed to light, heat and oxygen, L-ascorbic acid tends to lose its functionality in the skin.
The loss of efficacy of ascorbic acid can be perceived through the simple observation of the formula which, from straw-colored, tends to turn to brown: a similar effect can translate into a reduction in the antioxidant capacity of the serum.pH and Concentration
To allow vitamin C to express its functionality, it is important to respect pH and concentration.
Generally, in sera, ascorbic acid should meet the following parameters:
- acid pH (equal to or less than 3.5%);
- Minimum concentration of 8-10%.
Adverse Reactions Related to the Use of Vitamin C Serums
Usually, ascorbic acid is formulated at a concentration ranging from 8 to 20%, at a low pH (<3.5): on the one hand, these characteristics ensure a particularly powerful effect on the final product, but on the other hand they can cause a series of side effects such as localized irritation, redness and skin sensitization, especially for those suffering from very sensitive skin.
Attention
A concentration of ascorbic acid of 20% could not only cause irritation or sensitization of the skin, but could even frustrate the functionality of the vitamin, providing no benefit 9 to the skin.
The solution to avoid similar side effects must be sought in the replacement of vitamin C in the form of ascorbic acid with other more delicate forms, such as for example:
- magnesium ascorbyl phosphate;
- sodium ascorbyl phosphate;
- ascorbyl palmitate;
- ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate.
How does it work?
Inside each biphasic single-dose vial, the vitamin C is reduced to a powder, and enclosed inside the cap-tank: as it is, the vitamin C is not active, therefore, in the bottle below, an activating solution can be found. .
Before use, the powder must be mixed with the solution below: in this way, the biological activities of the vitamins are preserved, until the moment of application on the skin.
Generally, to ensure the skin a complete antioxidant treatment, it is advisable to alternate cyclically the application of the bottles of antioxidant vitamins (vitamins A, C and E): in this way, the skin can benefit from the beneficial properties of the individual antioxidant vitamins, one day after another.
Face Serums with Vitamin C and other Components
In other face serums, vitamin C can be associated with various functional ingredients, some aimed at enhancing the action of the same vitamin C, others aimed at carrying out further functions.
For example, in a bottle of mixed serum, in addition to vitamin C, substances such as:
- Vitamin A (retinol): effective for strengthening the anti-acne and smoothing effect on the skin;
- Vitamin E: effective for enhancing the antioxidant action of vitamin C;
- hyaluronic acid: used for its moisturizing and elasticizing activities, useful for ensuring the skin elasticity and hydration, as well as preventing the appearance of small wrinkles;
- collagen: is a very important connective tissue protein which, added to the formula, gives strength and structure to the skin, promoting skin tone and fighting wrinkles;
- alpha-hydroxy acids: they strengthen the lightening action of vitamin C, exfoliating the skin and smoothing the scars left by acne;
- SPF: are the sun protection factors;
- glycerin: gives the skin a younger appearance and strengthens the action of vitamin C reducing the signs of aging;
- essential oils: they are added to the serum formulas in small doses, to improve the fragrance or to enrich the cosmetic product with further properties.
Did you know that ...
For those suffering from very sensitive skin, it is recommended to perform a skin patch test before applying the product on the face to observe how the skin reacts to the product.
: in fact, most users of vitamin C serum do not observe significant side effects.
Furthermore, vitamin C appears to be safe and well tolerated by the skin even when used in combination with other skin active ingredients, such as alpha-hydroxy acids, retinoids (vitamin A and derivatives), vitamin E and SPF.
Adverse Reactions
Any adverse reactions associated with the use of vitamin C serums may depend on the concentration of the molecule in the solution or on the type of skin.
Those who suffer from particularly sensitive skin may experience local irritation / redness phenomena 9.
Some allergic or hypersensitivity reactions can be caused by the presence of other substances (eg perfumes, essential oils, etc.) present in the formula.
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