Generality
Cosmetic creams for acne represent a valid complement to medical therapy. In fact, let's not forget that acne is a pathology and as such must be treated with the help of specific medications prescribed by the doctor.
In this article we will try to analyze the most effective acne creams, distinguishing the cosmetic formulations - natural and not - from the pharmacological ones that require a medical prescription.
Essential requirements
A dermo-cosmetic treatment for acne-prone skin involves the use of various ingredients capable of acting in synergy, enhancing the final effect of the product. While acne creams must be prepared with a view to reducing all the symptoms generated by acne lesions (itching, redness, blackheads, papules, pustules, etc.), on the other hand these products should act at the root of the problem. , until the triggering cause is completely eradicated. However, it is good to point out that patients affected by acne mainly seek creams or other cosmetics able (above all) to improve the appearance of the skin, considering instead of secondary importance the products they do not feel a direct need (such as creams with sunscreens and moisturizers, however important to protect the skin and keep it healthy).
But an acne cream must also meet other essential requirements, resulting in:
- Skin-purifying and sebum-normalizing;
- Refreshing;
- Effective in the short term;
- Effective in reducing hyperkeratinization of the pilo-sebaceous duct (blocked by corneocytes);
- Gentle for the skin;
- Suitable for sensitive skin;
- Exfoliating (comedolytic action);
- Effective in stimulating cell renewal;
- Effective in reducing inflammation of the pilo-sebaceous glands;
- Enriched with moisturizing agents and photo protective (UVA and UVB filters);
- Ideal pH: An acne cream should have a slightly acidic pH to reduce sebum production.
Skin-purifying and sebum-normalizing
The bacterium Propionibacterium acnes plays a decisive role in the appearance and development of acne; for this reason, an effective anti-acne cream should limit bacterial proliferation at the level of acne lesions as much as possible. At the same time, an acne cream worthy of merit should exert an action sebum-normalizing, limiting, as much as possible, the exaggerated production of sebum typical of acne-prone skin. For this purpose, the ideal recipe for preparing an effective cream against acne involves the generous use of antibacterial, bacteriostatic and sebum-normalizing substances.
Based on the ingredients used in the formulation, an acne cream may or may not require a medical prescription: it is clear that a natural cream, made with diluted essential oils or active ingredients extracted naturally, can also be purchased without a doctor's prescription; nevertheless, the opinion of an expert - be it a dermatologist, a herbalist or a general practitioner - is always recommended.
Ingrediants
What ingredients should a skin-purifying and sebum-normalizing Acne Cream contain?
A skin-purifying and sebum-normalizing acne cream can be formulated with ingredients of different origins, such as natural ingredients (of vegetable or mineral origin) and ingredients with disinfectant and antibacterial action, very useful for fighting the bacterium mainly involved in the onset of this disorder. : the Propionibacterium acnes.
Leaving aside the active ingredients with anti-acne activity for which a doctor's prescription is required, the main ingredients - natural and non-natural - which can be found - alone or in combination - in skin-purifying acne creams will be briefly described below. and sebum normalizing that can be purchased without a prescription.
Essential oils
Essential oils are among the best known natural anti-acne ingredients. In fact, there are countless essential oils with extraordinary antiseptic (disinfectant) virtues.
Witch Hazel Extract
L "witch hazel extract (Hamamelis virgiliana) is a natural source of tannins, gallic acid, flavonoids and terpenes, active ingredients with known astringent, anti-reddening and skin-purifying properties. Precisely for these virtues, the witch hazel phytocomplex is used in cosmetics to prepare creams against acne.
Burdock extract
The phytocomplex extracted from burdock root (Arctium lappa) is a mine of caffeic acids, inulins, mucilages, phytosterols and polyacetylene sulfonates with sebum-normalizing and skin-purifying properties. Applied directly on acne-prone skin (in the appropriate dilutions), burdock extract is an excellent remedy to soothe itching and redness caused by acne: the soothing virtues of the mucilage contained in it make this plant an ideal ingredient for preparing acne creams. and other cosmetics dedicated to the treatment of oily, impure and acne-prone skin.
Birch extract
Also the extract obtained from the leaves of BIRCH (Betula alba) is a fairly common natural cosmetic ingredient in acne creams. In fact, its active ingredients (flavonoids, caffeic acid, ascorbic acid, tannins, vitamin C etc.), acting in synergy, confer extraordinary skin purifying, anti-inflammatory, astringent and antioxidant virtues to the product in which they are added.
Green tea extract
Green tea leaf extract (Camelia sinensis), rich in tannins, boasts astringent, antioxidant, sebum-normalizing and skin-purifying properties: for this reason, its phytocomplex is a natural cosmetic ingredient in great demand for formulating creams against acne.
Kaolin
Kaolin is a sebum-normalizing and opacifying substance capable of making the sebum less fluid thanks to its adsorbing action: an acne cream formulated with kaolin improves the aesthetic appearance of the skin, making it visibly less shiny and greasy. kaolin base also exert a good exfoliating action.
Azelaic Acid
Azelaic acid is a sebum-normalizing and anticomedogenic substance used in the preparation of creams against acne to balance the skin's production of sebum. Azelaic acid is able to limit the formation of sebum and free fatty acids in the skin by effectively inhibiting the 5-alpha-reductase * enzyme.
* Let us briefly remember that an excess of the 5-alpha-reductase enzyme is often the cause (or with-cause) of ailments such as acne, seborrhea and androgenetic baldness.
Furthermore, thanks to its antibacterial and bacteriostatic properties (especially against Propionibacterium acnes), azelaic acid is extremely suitable for the preparation of acne creams. Due to its irritating potential, the use of azelaic acid products requires a medical prescription.
Zinc oxide
Zinc oxide is an ingredient with strong healing properties and anti-reddening virtues that make it a cosmetic ingredient suitable for preparing acne creams.
Thanks to these particular characteristics, zinc oxide is also used in the treatment of other skin disorders, such as eczema and dermatosis.
Chlorhexidine and Triclosan
Chlorhexidine and Triclosan are chemicals often included in the list of ingredients of acne creams. These synthetic substances have, in fact, antimicrobial, purifying, disinfectant and preservative properties. Therefore, they are particularly useful for counteracting the Propionibacterium acnes.
Benzoyl peroxide
Benzoyl peroxide is another chemical that is widely used in the treatment of acne. In fact, it has a broad spectrum antibacterial activity which is particularly effective in counteracting the Propionibacterium acnes.
At the same time, benzoyl peroxide has an exfoliating and comedolytic action and this further justifies its use in acne creams.
MORE: Cream for acne: ingredients with exfoliating moisturizing anti-inflammatory properties "
