Past and present of clay
Due to its innumerable properties, clay has always captured the attention of cosmetologists, herbalists and doctors. Suffice it to say that already in ancient times clay was exploited in the cosmetic field for its emulsifying and pseudo-plastic properties: this natural material, with an almost inimitable consistency, proved to be particularly suitable for preparing face masks and packs.
All the properties listed above are effectively reflected in natural medicine and modern cosmetics.
- The virtues of clay do not simply depend on a single substance, but rather on the interaction of the various elements of which it is composed.
A step back to understand ...
Clay is a natural material, of mineral origin, composed of a living mixture of aluminum-silicate substances. More precisely, clay is an inexhaustible source of silicon, aluminum, iron, calcium, titanium, sodium, potassium, magnesium and manganese . According to the iron concentration and its chemical state, the clay takes on a different chromatic nuance. The best known types of clay are:
- Green clay: the iron contained in the clay is trivalent
- Red clay: the iron present is bivalent
- White clay: iron is scarcely present
Clay for external use
In dermocosmetics, clays are materials widely used to prepare masks and packs with detoxifying, moisturizing, soothing, anti-inflammatory and anti-acne properties. Let us briefly remember that clays are inert for the epidermis and, on the basis of their chemical-physical characteristics, are able to interact with the skin, predisposing it to receive the functional active ingredients incorporated in them.
Clay is not a drug because, by not crossing cell membranes, it cannot enter the bloodstream: the therapeutic-like effect exerted by clay-based cosmetic preparations is an expression of the various events that occur between the surface of the particles of clay and the area of application.
The properties of clay commonly used in cosmetics and folk medicine (external use) are described below:
- EMULSIFYING AND PSEUDO PLASTIC PROPERTIES: cardinal characteristic of clay that defines the degree of spreadability and malleability on the skin. To the touch, the clays appear greasy and greasy. After being diluted in water, the clay particles swell and remain in suspension for a long time It is precisely this quality - typical of colloids - that makes clays a raw material widely used in cosmetics in the stabilization of emulsifying systems.
Curiosity
In addition to the clay component, the clays present in nature also contain a sandy fraction; the relationship between the two components determines the so-called degree of fatness, consequently the plasticity. For the interesting functional and formulation characteristics, clays fat composed of a small sandy fraction are probably the most popular in cosmetic preparations and medicated formulations.
- DETERGENT / DETOXIFYING PROPERTIES: some clays, after having been moistened with water, act as detergents. Not surprisingly, before the introduction of soaps on a large industrial scale, it was customary to use the face and hands to cleanse the face and hands. clay exploiting its detergent (but not foaming) properties. The clays are in fact able to eliminate impurities from the skin without generating foam: the particles that make up the clay attract and fix dirt, grease and impurities on their surface through an adsorption process . After being applied to the skin in the form of a pack or mask, the clays begin to dry slowly, removing the impurities present from the skin, thus acting as a sort of cleanser.
- OPAQUE PROPERTIES: often used for the creation of make-up products with a covering action (foundations, earths, powders, etc.).
- MOISTURIZING PROPERTIES: the term moisturizing referring to the properties of clay, it is used improperly. More precisely, clay is able to create a certain cutaneous occlusivity which, by reducing the evaporation of water from the epidermis, indirectly hydrates the skin in the area where it was applied. (the right term is therefore "emollient"). By reducing the loss of water and steam from the skin, the clay favors at the same time the penetration of the active substances it contains into the superficial tissues where it is applied.
- ANTISEPTIC / SCALING PROPERTIES: the application of clay on the skin is used as a natural remedy against itching, sunburn, sores and cracking of the skin. The most suitable clays for this purpose are the degreasing ones, rich in magnesium and calcium; deodorising and restoring the painful sores, degreasing clays favor a more rapid healing of the lesion. The antiseptic properties of the clay are also used in the field of folk medicine for the realization of disinfectant external vaginal douches (to prepare the solution, 3-4 teaspoons of clay in a liter of water)
- DEODORANT PROPERTIES: clay is sometimes used as a remedy against excessive sweating of the feet, to keep the odor of the feet under control. To this end, clay is also used for its antiseptic properties.
- REMINERALIZING PROPERTIES: clay is a material of mineral origin, therefore rich in silica, magnesium, iron, aluminum, calcium and many other minerals. For this purpose, clay is also exploited for its remineralizing properties.
- ANTI-WRINKLE PROPERTIES: used as a mask or pack, clay is part of the long list of anti-wrinkle remedies. For the same reason, clay is also used to treat or improve the appearance of mature and dehydrated skin.
- EXFOLIATING PROPERTIES: applied to the face in the form of a poultice or mask, the clay smooths the skin, favoring the elimination of spots on the skin and small imperfections. By removing the most superficial cells from the stratum corneum, the clay acts as a mild exfoliant. To enhance its smoothing properties, it is advisable to add a few drops of lemon juice or other fruit rich in malic acid (known natural exfoliant).
- WHITENING PROPERTIES: white clays (kaolin) are often included in the formulation of whitening mouthwashes and toothpastes.
Clay for internal use
Even phytotherapy and folk medicine have been able to grasp the excellent properties of clay to improve the course of some pathologies or treat some pathological-like affections.
Following checks conducted by EFSA (the European Food Safety Authority) on the possible risks to human health deriving from the presence of aluminum in food, the Ministry of Health has recently changed the conditions of use of food additives containing aluminum.
In light of the restrictions adopted for the use of clays as additives, starting from the productions of 1 February 2014, the use of the following substances as ingredients in food supplements is prohibited:
- sodium aluminum silicate (E554)
- potassium aluminum silicate (E555)
- calcium aluminum silicate (E556)
- bentonite (E558)
- aluminum silicate or kaolin (E559)
For the other clays used as ingredients in food supplements, the type and content with the indicated intake quantities must be specified on the label. Furthermore, with the notification of the label, a certi fi cation on the extent of the presence of aluminum must be provided.
For internal use, clay can be used for the following properties:
- CHELATING / ANTITOXIC PROPERTIES: clay has long been used as a support for detoxifying therapy against intestinal poisoning. This substance, in fact, has chelating properties, such as to favor the removal of toxins or substances potentially dangerous for the organism through a system of "sequestration" (chelation).
- ANTIANEMIC PROPERTIES: due to its richness in iron, the clay (especially the red one) can be taken orally to combat anemic states as a support to traditional medical therapy. Consult your doctor.
- ADSORBENT PROPERTIES: the clay is able to absorb good quantities of liquids and gases. For this purpose, this substance with innumerable properties can also be used to improve the symptoms of meteorism (swollen belly), flatulence, irritable bowel syndrome and others disorders affecting the gastrointestinal system. Taken by mouth in the form of tablets, the clay relieves abdominal tension by combining the chelating properties with a good anti-fermentation and astringent effect. For this purpose, kaolin (white clay) is particularly suitable as it is rich in silica, aluminum and other mineral salts.